The truly exciting thing about American brandy, though, is the range of variables — grape variety, yeast, soil, barrel, climate — that can combine to produce a vast range of styles.
“It’s still in the infancy of American brandy,” Mr. Germain-Robin said. “It has so much potential. If people are distilling in the Finger Lakes or Virginia, we’re going to have many varieties. It’s unbelievable what we’re going to be able to do over time.”